Italian Luxury Eyewear’s Influence and M&A Trends

Italian luxury eyewear has long been synonymous with unparalleled craftsmanship, timeless design, and a global presence. Renowned for their sleek aesthetics and high-quality materials, Italian luxury brands such as Gucci, Prada, and Bulgari have long been influential in the market, creating collections that are not just fashion statements, but also essential accessories symbolizing status and sophistication. The global eyewear industry itself is vast, encompassing everything from prescription lenses to high-end fashion frames, and is driven by both traditional craftsmanship and cutting-edge technology.

In recent years, a wave of M&A has transformed the sector, signaling an era of consolidation where major players are increasingly joining forces to solidify their positions in a competitive and ever-changing market. This trend is evident across various industries, with the eyewear sector being a notable example, where luxury and innovation converge. In a market worth billions, consolidating power allows for stronger brand portfolios, enhanced manufacturing capabilities, and expanded global reach. For the eyewear industry, consolidation has become a strategic way to stay relevant, efficient, and profitable.

Real Case: Marcolin’s acquisition by VSP Vision

VSP Vision, a vision care health insurance company operating in the U.S. and other countries, announced its definitive agreement to acquire the majority stake of Marcolin, a leading eyewear manufacturer, from PAI Partners and other minority shareholders. The acquisition, valued at an estimated €1.2 to €1.3 billion, is set to close in Q4 2025, pending regulatory approvals. This deal marks a significant expansion of VSP Vision’s portfolio.

Founded in 1961, Marcolin is known for its high-end eyewear and partnerships with luxury brands like Tom Ford, Zegna, and Max Mara. The acquisition is part of VSP’s strategy to expand its global presence, particularly in luxury eyewear, by combining its existing resources with those of Marchon, another VSP-owned company. This will diversify VSP’s product offerings, appealing to both luxury and mainstream customers.

The deal also reflects the continuing trend of various companies making strategic acquisitions in European luxury markets.

The consolidation of companies: a growing trend

VSP’s move may represent a shift in the vision care industry, showing how companies outside the luxury eyewear sector, like non-profit health insurance providers, are entering the lucrative eyewear market. This signals the growing convergence between fashion and healthcare, as companies expand their offerings in vision care.

It is evident here, as the Marcolin-VSP Vision deal is part of a larger trend of consolidation across various industries, driven by the need for scale and efficiency in an increasingly competitive market. In 2024, PAI Partners, Marcolin’s major shareholder, considered several strategic options, including an IPO or an M&A deal. Other players, such as Kering, EssilorLuxottica and Safilo expressed their interested in acquiring Marcolin, but high valuation slowed discussions.

Additionally, consolidation is not limited to eyewear but extends to sectors such as oil, automotive, banking, fashion and other sectors.

In Italian corporate law, consolidation refers to the process of merging two or more companies into a single entity, often creating greater efficiency and market power. It allows companies to achieve economies of scale, reduce redundancies, and leverage shared resources such as marketing and manufacturing expertise. This process typically involves mergers or acquisitions, with the goal of strengthening competitive positioning and optimizing resources.

While in a merger two or more companies merge into one, with one absorbing the other or creating a NewCo, in an acquisition, one company gains control over another by purchasing its shares or stakes, without merging the companies into a single entity.

Conclusion

The Marcolin acquisition is a major milestone in the ongoing consolidation of the eyewear industry. Moreover, this deal is a further evidence that consolidation could represent a fundamental strategy for companies across all sectors. M&A transactions not only strengthen a company’s structure and governance but also offer new synergies and growth opportunities through access to new markets, expansion, and the combination of know-how. In an ever-evolving world, where competition and consumer demands are constantly changing, consolidation proves to be a strategic key to maintaining a competitive advantage and ensuring sustainable long-term growth.

Veronica Gianola Veronica Gianola

Veronica Gianola

Senior Associate
Veronica Gianola, an accomplished Italian lawyer, is a member of the Milan Bar Association.
Jun Jie Yang Jun Jie Yang

Jun Jie Yang

Associate
Jun Jie Yang, has developed strong expertise in the areas of TMT, Data Protection, and commercial contracts.

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