From Dreamlike Lingerie to a Nightmarish Business Outlook—The Treacherous Revival of the Iconic Italian Brand ‘La Perla’

The renowned Italian luxury lingerie brand ‘La Perla’ has entered a transformative chapter following its recent acquisition by American entrepreneur Peter Kern, former Vice-President and CEO of Expedia. This acquisition signifies a crucial turning point for the iconic Bologna-based company, which has been navigating financial challenges and restructuring processes in recent years.

La Perla was founded in 1954 by Ada Masotti, a talented corsetiere who envisioned lingerie as an expression of art, elegance, and craftsmanship.  Over the decades, La Perla established itself as a symbol of Italian excellence, renowned for its exceptional quality, meticulous handmade details, and innovative designs. The brand became synonymous with luxury and sophistication, capturing global recognition and establishing boutiques worldwide, particularly known for pioneering the concept of lingerie as a fashionable outerwear element. 

Despite its prestigious history and global acclaim, La Perla recently faced severe financial instability, prompting judicial liquidation proceedings in Italy and the United Kingdom. This precarious financial state mirrors broader trends within the luxury lingerie market. For instance, fashion market behemoth Victoria’s Secret also encountered significant economic headwinds, even underperforming the lion’s share of peer companies in the relevant market. Indeed, the stock value of Victoria’s Secret has plunged roughly 55–56% in the last three years, wiping off nearly $2.4 billion in shareholder value since its separation from L Brands—its former parent company—and went public (as an independent entity) in 2021. Furthermore, while Victoria’s Secret has not yet filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection in the US or other jurisdictions for its current parent company, Victoria’s Secret’s UK unit entered administration (the British equivalent of Chapter 11) in mid 2020.  Subsequently, many of its flagship stores around the country have been shut, and further closures worldwide are likely to be announced shortly due to the brand’s lacklustre growth since the pre-pandemic era.

Generally speaking, the broader sector also performed rather poorly in the last year (-16.6%), as it experienced considerable setbacks amidst shifting consumer preferences and major macroeconomic headwinds. According to Bloomberg, the luxury lingerie market has been notably impacted by a lacklustre consumer appetite for high-end goods as well as increased competition from more accessible, inclusive, and sustainably driven brands. 

The strategic acquisition by Peter Kern, announced on June 10, 2025, provides La Perla with the financial stability and visionary leadership necessary for its revival. Kern’s investment includes both the prestigious brand name and the essential Bologna-based production facility, La Perla Manufacturing, ensuring not only business continuity but also future growth and innovation. As reported by Reuters, Kern’s offer—valued at around €25 million—exceeded the minimum required bid and included significant commitments to employment preservation and expansion. This agreement safeguards the jobs of La Perla’s 210 existing employees and outlines plans for hiring 40 additional staff members, highlighting a positive trajectory for local employment and economic impact.

Returning to the helm as CEO is Paolo Vannucchi, whose previous tenure saw the brand through several crucial transitions. His intimate understanding of La Perla’s operational and market dynamics is set to position the company advantageously for recovery and growth. Peter Kern, who has built a notable reputation within luxury investment circles through various ventures including significant investments in prestigious Italian vineyards producing Brunello di Montalcino, will serve as the company’s new president. Kern’s deep appreciation for Italian heritage and luxury aligns seamlessly with La Perla’s brand ethos. 

This acquisition signifies not merely a business transaction, but a revitalization of a historic Italian brand within a highly competitive and ever-changing market that is currently undergoing significant evolution amidst global headwind in the luxury market. The high-end lingerie sector, exemplified by challenges faced by market leaders such as Victoria’s Secret, demonstrates the heightened necessity for brands to continually adapt to shifting consumer expectations and market conditions. Kern’s strategic vision includes reinforcing the Made-in-Italy heritage, enhancing product innovation, and refining La Perla’s retail strategy to ensure sustained relevance and profitability.

La Perla’s scenario involving judicial liquidation and cross-border legal processes underscores the necessity of tailored legal counsel to lay the foundation for a company’s successful revival. In this regard, D’Andrea & Partners, an international law firm with extensive experience in corporate restructuring, liquidation procedures, and investor relations, provides critical insight and support for similar transactions. Our firm’s expertise encompasses strategic navigation through restructuring frameworks, managing cross-border legal complexities, and securing viable new investment opportunities for distressed businesses. You can find out more about our services and experiences at our official website: D’Andrea & Partners.

In sum, Peter Kern’s acquisition of La Perla represents a significant vote of confidence in the resilience and lasting allure of Italian luxury products. As the brand embarks on this promising new chapter, strategic insights and specialised legal expertise can become crucial in navigating the intricacies of corporate restructuring.

The above content is provided for informational purposes only. The provision of this article does not create an attorney-client relationship between D’Andrea & Partners and the reader and does not constitute legal advice. Legal advice must be tailored to the specific circumstances of each case, and the contents of this article are not a substitute for legal counsel.